When I see or hear the words “Cape Malays”, my head fills with sight, sound, and smell memories. Scintillating brides and their retinues. The beautiful tenor voices of the men singing in the little stone mosque on the hill above the wash-house. The call to prayer of the ‘bilal’ (muezzin). The beautiful smells of fragrant oils and rosewater, and, of course, warm spicy ‘koe’siesters’ on Sunday mornings. These are some of my memories of growing up in Kalk Bay.
Origins
Cape Malays, also known as Cape Muslims, originated mostly in the Dutch East Indies, around modern Indonesia. This group of people was first known as “Malays” because they all spoke the Malaysian language. The term, “Cape Malays”, was the label that the previous government assigned to the Malays, who lived in the Cape. Because of this, many of the people have rejected the name, preferring “Muslim”. I apologise if they find my using the name offensive.
The Dutch East India Company at the Cape needed labour and they found a ready source in the east. From the 1670s to 1724, they imported political exiles from that region as slaves. Many of these people were skilled artisans, such as silversmiths, milliners, cobblers, singers, masons and tailors. A wide array of artefacts can be viewed in the Bo-Kaap Museum in Cape Town. Many of their descendants practice these skills to this day. The excellence of their work is widely-known. Some were also experienced fishermen.
Muslim communities around Cape Town
Before returning to “my” community in Kalk Bay, I must mention other Muslim communities in the Cape. Since the 1700s, there has been a community in the Bo-Kaap, at the foot of Table Mountain. It is a sought-after tourist destination, with its pastel-coloured houses. Another, dating from the same era, is in Macassar, close to the Strand on False Bay. They were mostly fishermen. There was a large Muslim community in District Six, and a distinct community in Simon’s Town, at the southern end of the Cape Peninsula. They were forcibly resettled to the Cape Flats, together with everyone not designated as “White”, by the previous government. Not all the Muslims in Kalk Bay met this fate. A large number were forced out of the village. The majority continued to inhabit “the fishermen’s flats”, built in the 1940s by the City Council to house the fishermen. Most of the Muslims in Kalk Bay were (and some still are) fishermen.
Bo-Kaap
Gawpers
My friends and I were great gawpers. Whenever there was a Muslim occasion in the village, we were there – gawping. The bridal retinues were the best! The wedding ceremony, the “nikah”, is attended only by the groom, with his male relatives. The bride is represented by father, who enters into the marriage contract on her behalf, often accompanied by other male relatives. The men in their suits and red felt fezzes were no match for the bride and her attendants. The retinue often consisted of about ten attendants of various ages. And we’re only talking about the females. Traditionally the bride had two dresses. One for the morning celebration with her family. The other for the groom’s in the afternoon. White was not mandatory either. The colours! The beadwork, and sequins, and gold and silver thread! The jewellery! And the literal crowning glory – the “medora” on the bride’s head, together with the veil. Took our breath away. The medora consists of fabric that is heavily beaded and embroidered in gold and/or silver thread. Often it is purchased in Mecca by a family member when on “haj” (pilgrimage). It forms part of a young woman’s trousseau. The best part, though, is the way it has been pinned in intricate patterns to fit on the bride’s head. Sometimes, the bridesmaids too. This is painstakingly done by older women. And the best “pinners” are in great demand.
“Moulet”
The other great gawping occasion was the annual “moulet”. This is the local Muslim name for Mouloodan Nabi, the celebration of the prophet, Mohammed’s, birthday. So, what was gawp-worthy about this? The women’s and girls’ best outfits. Again, the colours and rich adornment of the fabrics. And the “rampies sny” (“cutting the mixture”). This is a Cape Malay tradition. The females finely cut orange and lemon leaves. In my town, they sat outside the mosque with their cutting boards on their laps. The “rampies” were mixed with expensive aromatic oils and rose or lemon water. The scent on the air! They were then wrapped in brightly coloured little crepe paper parcels for presentation to the men. They are used to perfume clothes. All the while, the males inside the mosque and the females outside sang and chanted praises to the Prophet. We hung about, too scared to ask for a rampies parcel. Hoping someone would take pity on us and just give us one. How we longed to finger those exotic little cushions
“Barakat” and “boeber”
My eyes light up and my mouth waters when I think about the food! Malays are renowned for their cooking and signature dishes: curry, breyani, aknee, roti, samosas, pickled fish, pastries (sweet and savoury)… And my favourite – koeksisters! There are also traditional dishes such as bredie, frikkadels, denningvleis, sabananvleis, pinangkerrie, sosaties and bobotie. These stem mostly from Malaysian roots. Many dishes have also been imported from other cultures.
Malays have a beautiful tradition of “barakat” (blessing in Arabic). These are gifts of food given on many social occasions when guests leave for home. They are also shared among neighbours during the month of Ramadan (the month of fasting). And on the feast of Eid-ul-Fitr at the end of the month. And then there is “boeber”. Nectar from the gods! It is a warm thick, sweet drink, made with milk, butter, sago, vermicelli, cardamom, cinnamon, and rose water. Sometimes with toasted almonds. In Cape Town, this is traditionally made on the 15th night of Ramadan, the half-way mark of the fast. We waited in eager anticipation for our jug of boeber to appear on “boeber night”.
“Moslem school”
Another picture I will always remember is my peers in their “salaah” (prayer) robes. Girls in headscarves. Boys in skull caps (a type of fez). In their hands, cloth bags containing holy books. They were going to and coming from Moslem school (Arabic: “madrassah”). They attended every afternoon after normal school to learn about their faith.
I have merely scratched the surface of this rich and multifaceted people.
These are my experiences with the Cape Malay people while I was growing up. And not even all of them. Just the ones that stood out for me.
Feature Image: Craig Howes
To donate to the #ImStayingFund,
please click here:
Please submit your story to us HERE
For more positive and uplifting stories visit us at #ImStayingGOOD THOUGHTS • GOOD WORDS • GOOD DEEDS
